Home to brick-red elephants and a good mix of predators, the vast national parks of Tsavo East and Tsavo West comprise one of the largest expanses of wilderness in Kenya, around 15 times larger than the Masai Mara.
The largest of Kenya’s national parks, Tsavo East has an undeniably wild and primordial charm. The park is most famous for its brick-red elephants, which get their distinctive colour from bathing in the Tsavo mud, and is dramatically cut through by the Galana River. Almost all game drives take place south of the river. The Kanderi Swamp is home to lion and leopard, while open grasslands provide the perfect habitat for prowling cheetah, with sightings of the quick cats more common here than anywhere else in south-eastern Kenya. Make it as far north as the Galana itself and you’ll likely spot crocodile, hippo, lesser kudu, waterbuck and dikdik, and perhaps more lion and leopard. What you won’t see, however, are many other vehicles. This is solitary safari country – a chance to witness wildlife in an undisturbed environment. Tsavo West is a markedly different beast. Gone are the flat, dry expanses of Tsavo East, replaced instead by wooded and hilly landscapes, dotted with extinct volcanic cones, rocky peaks, natural springs and dramatic black lava flows. The park is home to a good mix of predators, including lion, leopard, cheetah and hyena, as well as elephant, rhino, buffalo, zebra, oryx and giraffe. There are crocodiles and hippos too, especially around the crystal-clear Mzima Springs, an oasis of green in the west of the park that produces an incredible 250 million litres of fresh water a day.